Working together for healthier bread

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Farmers, millers and bakers are collaborating to improve organically grown flour to improve its taste and texture to create a healthier product.

The Baking Association of Canada will host the Farmer Miller Baker Summit at Fanshawe College on August 26, bringing together industry leaders to discuss how to make better organic flour and bread.

Fanshawe professor and presenter at the Summit, Chef Roland Hofner, said there are significant differences between how organic and non-organic flours are produced. In particular, organic grains are chemical-free, and while they may feel the same, like non-organic grains, they often bake differently because they’re not chemically bleached and are left in their natural form.  

“This means one day there can be beautiful bread and the next day the bread could be less beautiful because the protein creating the gluten structure is lacking,” he said.

In fact, today’s non-organic grains are more resilient to the wind, sun, rain and insects because they’ve been gene manipulated through hybridization – a process of crossing two genetically different plants to produce new genotypes – resulting in hybrids sprayed with pesticides, which changes their chromosomes. This makes it difficult for the human stomach to break down the complexity of the new flour or gluten created. Perhaps this one of the reasons why many people develop a gluten intolerance, Hoffner said. In addition, millers age the grain by bleaching them and using more chemicals. 

“We’ve bastardized our flour over the last 50 years,” Hofner said. “I call it a Frankenstein flour and it’s a different type of ingredient, a different type of food than what our ancestors ate, which is one of the reasons we like to turn to organic flour and go back to simple grains like Spelt, Emmer or Einkorn.”

On the other hand, organic farming doesn’t use chemicals to age grains. Instead, using a natural process, it takes four to six weeks to get them ready for baking. As result, they’re a healthier product, said Hofner. 

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As part of the Summit, workshops will test organic flours from small mills by baking three breads and one scone. 

Hofner will be one of the chefs leading an interactive breadmaking workshop. Using sourdough, he will use techniques from the Richemont Craft School of Bakery and Confectionery in Lucerne, Switzerland, Fanshawe’s international partner school. 

In addition, the one-day event will connect fellow bakers on the grains-to-table journey, exchange insights on farming practices, grain processing and artisanal baking while discussing the top food trends driving consumer purchases. 

With over 30 years' experience in the culinary industry, Hofner has worked in bakeries, catering companies, on an exclusive cruise ship, at five-star hotels, opened and owned a restaurant and bakery and pastry shop as well as prepared dessert for Queen Elizabeth II.

He has also received a Canadian Red Seal certification through the ministry of training, colleges and universities. Other culinary honours include a  gold medal for chocolate showpiece at the International Food and Wine Show in Toronto, the best of show award at the Chocolate Show and best restaurant in Noerdlingen, Germany, Dessert Champion, Battle of the Hors D’oeuvres, London, and has coached many students to top finishes at culinary and baking competitions. 

The Baking and Pastry Arts Management program at Fanshawe College’s Faculty of Business and Hospitality, which is a member of the Baking Association of Canada, is hosting the Summit at the London Downtown Campus.